Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a GFCI receptacle on my pellet appliance?
This is not recommended. The GFCI will sense the difference in the amount of electricity flowing in and out of the circuit, even in amounts of current as small as 4 or 5 milliamperes. The GFCI reacts quickly (less than one tenth of a second) to trip or shut off the circuit.
A properly grounded 3 prong outlet provides adequate protection for both people and the appliance should a short circuit occur.
How do I know if an appliance is EPA certified?
The EPA 2020 certification of an appliance can be checked in three places:
On the certification plate
Locate towards the bottom of the plate, just above the safety notices, the section that indicates ''U.S. ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION AGENCY. Certified to comply with 2020 particulate emission standards with cordwood''.
In the manual
In the installation and user manual, go to the performances table in the “General information” section and locate the line “Average particulate emission rate” – it will show EPA if the appliance is EPA certified.
On the website
Go to the product page in which you are interested. In the ''Specifications'' section, locate the lines ''High-efficiency certified appliance'' and ''US Standard (emissions)'' - these will respectively show ''Yes, EPA 2020 Approved'' and ''EPA'' if the appliance is EPA certified.
In the event of a discrepancy between the information displayed on the plate and the other references, the values on the certification plate always have priority.
Can I vent my pellet appliance using my existing prefabricated chimney?
Our pellet appliances are certified on 3" and/or 4" pellet vent. If they are installed on a chimney having a larger diameter, we cannot guarantee that the appliance's performance will be adequate. Therefore, if you intend to vent your pellet unit through a prefabricated chimney, the minimum requirement will be the installation of a stainless steel liner from the appliance to the extremity of the chimney. Given the elevation for this type of installation, a liner with a 4-inch diameter will be required. Using a fire screen at the extremity of the chimney requires regular inspection in order to ensure that it is not obstructed thus blocking the draught. It should be cleaned when necessary.
Can I vent my pellet appliance through a masonry chimney?
You can vent your appliance through a masonry chimney. It is important that the masonry chimney be built in compliance with the specifications of the National Building Code or other applicable standard having jurisdiction. It must be lined with fire-clay bricks, metal or clay tiles sealed together with fire cement. The minimum venting requirement will be the installation of a stainless steel liner from the appliance to the extremity of the chimney. Given the elevation for this type of installation, a 4-inch diameter is normally required. Using a fire screen at the extremity of the chimney requires regular inspection in order to ensure that it is not obstructed thus blocking the draught. It should be cleaned when necessary.
How to choose the right size pellet stove?
Choosing the right size pellet stove is essential to ensure efficient and economical heating of your home. Whether you are looking to reduce your heating bills, adopt a more eco-friendly solution, or simply add a pleasant heat source to your space, it is crucial to understand the different elements that influence this decision.
The primary factor to consider is the size of the space to be heated in order to choose a stove with a capacity perfectly suited to your needs. This avoids the risk of oversizing, which would be energetically inefficient, or undersizing, which would not achieve a comfortable temperature. This calculation should also take into account the insulation of your home and the local climate conditions, both of which can affect heating needs.
To learn how to determine the heating area, check out our full blog article by clicking here.
Why does my 65 series pellet stove shut down with E code when installed in a garage/shop?
This can be caused by a sensor on the exhaust being exposed to cold temperatures when the garage door is open. Cold air rushing along the floor drops the temperature sensor to the point it thinks the fire has gone out due to running out of pellets and gives out an "E" code. To help avoid this you can insulate the sensor( Thermistor) with some non-flammable material such as Roxul insulation. It can be held in place with aluminum tape. This way it only senses internal temperatures of the exhaust.
Why is the efficiency as per the EPA’s test data smaller than the publicized optimum efficiency?
EPA refers to the CSAB415.1-10 standard for the calculation of the appliance’s efficiency. The efficiency reported as per EPA’s directives consists of an average between four different burn rates, ranging from the lowest burn rate (air intake completely closed) to the highest burn rate (air intake completely open). The optimum efficiency that we publicize is the efficiency obtained according to the same test data, but for the low burn rate only. This efficiency is more realistic for a majority of users whose heating needs require that the unit be used to maximize burn times.
Where are the fuses located on the 35 and 45 series pellet stove?
There are 2 fuses on the circuit board. The F3 fuse is for the ignitor. It is located at the top, sitting horizontally. It is a 5 amp. 250 volt buss fuse. The other main fuse ( F2) is for all other functions on the circuit board. It is 7.5 amp. 250 volts. The circuit board is marked with F2 and F3. To access both you need to open the right side of the unit and remove the cover from the metal box that houses the circuit board. It is held on by 4 small screws.It is best to remove the fuse and check it with a meter for continuity as a visual inspection will not show failure at times.
The part numbers for replacements are:
- 44013 FUSE 7.5A / 250V / 1/4" DIA. X 1 1/4'' LONG
- 44015 FUSE 5A / 250V / 1/4" DIA. X 1 1/4'' LONG
Make sure you have disconnected the power prior to checking the fuses.
Can I burn corn in my pellet appliance?
Your appliance is not designed to burn corn. The combustion of corn requires mechanical and electronic adjustments. Without those adjustments, corn combustion may cause the appliance to overheat, malfunction, or wear out prematurely. Consult your owner’s manuals for the type of pelletized fuel that may be used with your appliance.
Why do I get moisture in the hopper of my pellet heater?
Moisture can form on the inside of your hopper due to cold outside air entering your unit through the exhaust vent when the unit is not being used. Cold outside air condense when it becomes in contact with room air. This occurs when there is a negative pressure in the room where the unit is installed. To correct this problem, the room needs to be balanced by either directly connecting outside combustion air to the unit or to the room where the unit is installed.
Does my heater qualify under the LEED program?
Le Système d’évaluation Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) encourage et accélère l’adoption internationale de la construction et du développement durable, par la création et l’implantation d’outils et de critères d’évaluation compris et acceptés universellement. LEED est un programme de certification par tierce partie et un point de référence international pour le design, la construction et l’opération des bâtiments durables à haute performance. Il fournit aux propriétaires et aux gérants des bâtiments les outils dont ils ont besoin pour avoir un impact immédiat et mesurable sur la performance de leurs bâtiments. Le Conseil du Bâtiment durable du Canada (CBDCa) certifie les projets en fonction du total des points obtenus après des vérifications et un examen indépendant de la documentation soumise par les équipes de conception et de construction. Avec ses quatre niveaux de certification (certifié, argent, or, et platine), LEED est suffisamment souple pour tenir compte d'une vaste gamme de stratégies adaptées aux contraintes et aux objectifs des projets de bâtiments durables. Les systèmes d'évaluation LEED Canada sont une adaptation des systèmes LEED des É.-U. Green Building Council (USGBC), élaborée spécifiquement en fonction des climats, des pratiques de construction et des règlements canadiens. Ils sont adaptés au marché canadien par un processus qui implique les parties prenantes et les experts représentant les secteurs divers de l'industrie canadienne. Pour plus d’information, visitez le site web de LEED CANADA.
CATEGORY | QUALIFY IF | OBTAIN 1 POINT IF |
---|---|---|
Wood/Pellet Stoves | They meet the EPA or CSAB415.1 standards AND are connected to outside combustion air. | Their emissions do not exceed 4.5 g/h (non-catalytic appliances). |
Wood Inserts | They meet the EPA or CSAB415.1 standards AND are connected to outside combustion air. | Their emissions do not exceed 4.5 g/h (non-catalytic appliances). |
What makes a heater mobile-home approved?
Mobile-home approved stoves have gone through specific testing to show that they can source their combustion air entirely from outside the house. This is required because mobile homes (or manufactured homes) are often very airtight. Should there be a lack of combustion air, harmful levels of CO (carbon monoxide) could accumulate in the house. This is why mobile-home approved stoves have an adapter that hooks-up to the unit and connects to a fresh air intake on the outside wall of the house through an insulated pipe.
Do I need to install a fresh air intake on my wood heater?
A fresh air intake is not mandatory for your wood heater, unless the unit is installed in a mobile home or if the local building code or the manufacturer requires it. If the heater is installed in an open room, in a house that is more or less air-tight, combustion air will normally be easily replaced. In this case, the installation of a fresh air intake is not required. It must, however, be noted that a fresh air intake, even if it is not mandatory, will always provide the advantage of better balancing the house with regards to combustion air. If the house has a powerful mechanical exhaust system that may be used while the heater is burning (ex: range hood), a fresh-air intake will be required.
Do I need a floor protection under and around my heater?
Yes, floor protection is required for any wood appliance unless the unit already sits on a non-combustible surface. You have many choices, such as stone, brick, cement board, or tile. You need to consult your owner's manual in order to know the dimensions of the floor protection specific to your model. In Canada, the floor protection must extend in front of the unit by at least 18 inches and by at least 8 inches on each side. In the USA, the floor protection must extend at least 8 inches on each side of the appliance (measured from the door opening) and at least 16 inches in front of the door opening.
Does the pellet quality have an impact on the appliance performance?
The quality of the pellets used will first have an impact on ignition. Pellets with a high moisture content can cause a failed or delayed ignition. Make sure that you always store your fuel in a dry area. As far as combustion goes, a pellet with a high ash content will allow the formation of a crust inside the burn pot, which will require more frequent cleaning. Moreover, incomplete combustion can lead to the clogging of the burn pot, which will cause the appliance to shut down. Make sure you use pellets for residential purposes with a premium or super-premium grade. The ash content should be equal or lower than 1% and should be certified by the pellet manufacturer. It should be clearly marked on the bag. Certain pellet appliances have a burner designed for the use of higher-ash pellets. The main characteristic of those burners is that the combustion residues are pushed out of the burn area as the fuel gets consumed, therefore preventing any significant ash accumulation. In our industry jargon, this technology is often referred to as bottom feed.
What type of exhaust system do I need for my pellet stove?
For all pellet stoves, the same type of venting is used from the appliance connector to the exterior of the house. It is commonly called a type L pellet vent. This type of flue is designed with a double wall. It is made of stainless steel inside and galvanized steel outside. Air between the two walls is what provides the insulation. In Canada, pellet vent is certified to ULC-S609-M89/ORD-C441. In the United States, it is certified to UL-641. Pellet stoves generally require a 3-inch or 4-inch diameter. A 4-inch diameter is normally recommended for installations with a high elevation. For high-output appliances, a 4-inch vent may be the only diameter allowed. Consult your owner’s manual in order to find out what vent diameter is recommended for your model.
What type of pipe and chimney do I need for my appliance?
Your exhaust system is comprised of two main elements: chimney and stove pipe.
Stove Pipe
Steel pipes that connect the appliance to the insulated chimney are normally needed unless the appliance is already inserted into an enclosure (for instance, in the case of a zero-clearance wood fireplace). They do not pass through combustible materials. The term “black pipe” is also often used in the industry. There are two types of stove pipe: single-wall pipes and double-wall pipes.
As their name indicates, single-wall pipes have just one wall. A minimum of 18 inches is required between the pipe and a combustible wall. In general, single-wall pipes provide less insulation than double-wall pipes do and therefore require more clearance. This is the main drawback of single-wall pipes. Their advantage is in their cost; they are nearly three times less expensive than double-wall pipes.
As their name indicates, double-wall pipes have a second wall, i.e., an interior one made of stainless steel. The cushion of air between the two walls provides thermal insulation allowing the appliance to be installed much closer to walls. This is the main advantage of double-wall pipes. The required distance for each heater model is based on the safety tests conducted with each type of connector. You therefore need to properly consult the appliance’s owner’s manual in order to know the prescribed clearances from combustible materials.
Chimney
There are two types of chimneys: an insulated (or prefabricated) chimney or a masonry chimney. If you have a masonry chimney, it must meet the local building code. It must be lined with refractory bricks or tiles joint together with refractory cement. The chimney diameter should be the same as the appliance’s flue outlet (6 inches for most models). It is rarely the case with masonry chimneys. Their diameter is often bigger than the appliance’s flue outlet. The way to deal with this is to insert inside the masonry chimney a stainless steel liner that has the same diameter as the appliance’s flue outlet. Unless a liner is installed, serious draft problems can occur.
An insulated chimney (or prefab chimney) is a stainless steel flue that has been tested to resist temperature as high as 2100F. It has a double wall filled with insulating wool. The majority of insulated chimneys have 2 inches of insulation, while some have just 1 inch. Others are air-insulated and have 3 walls; they are referred to as “triple-wall air-cooled chimneys.
When we speak of a 6-inch chimney, we are referring to its interior diameter. If the chimney has 2 inches of insulation, the flue will have an exterior diameter of 10 inches.
In wood-heat system installations, we must use an insulated chimney for any flue that passes through walls, ceilings, attics and closets (i.e., all combustible surfaces in general). This chimney must also be installed outside the house.
My auger does not feed pellets
If your auger does not feed pellets, a couple of tests can be performed on the 35 and 45 series. Ensure that your hopper lid is closed and press the manual feed button. If the auger motor tries to turn, you may have a jammed auger and a thorough cleaning is required. If there isn’t any response to the motor, you can bypass the hopper lid switch to check the motor itself. If the motor turns, it indicates the hopper lid safety switch is faulty and needs replacing. For the 50 and 65 series, there is a fuse to check in addition to the above tests. (Schematic can be found in your owner’s manual). Make sure the unit is unplugged before performing any test.